Which fit and construction details should be defined for a woven shirt?
For a custom woven shirt, the key fit and construction details should be defined before sampling so the first physical sample reflects your intent. Agreeing on these elements up front keeps revision rounds short and gives the factory a clear, measurable target.
Fit & construction details to define
Typical elements specified for a woven shirt program:
Collar shape
Point, spread, band, or mandarin—plus collar height and band width.
Shoulder line
Set-in versus dropped shoulder, and the shoulder slope or pitch.
Chest & body measurements
Across-chest width, body circumference, and graded size steps.
Sleeve length
Short, elbow, or full length, measured from shoulder point.
Cuffs
Barrel or French, with placket opening and closure detail.
Front placket
French or regular placket, with button spacing and stance.
Pockets
Patch, welt, or none—position, size, and flap detail.
Hem shape
Curved shirttail or straight hem, with hem allowance.
Overall silhouette
Slim, regular, relaxed, or oversized proportion as the baseline.
Review as a complete garment
These details should be reviewed together with the selected fabric and intended fit, because cloth weight and hand feel change how a shirt drapes, presses, and wears. Evaluating the physical sample as a whole—not one element at a time—confirms the garment before bulk production:


